Reminiscing

About 27 years ago to the day, as a naive 18 year old, I jumped on a plane from New Zealand to France to join my boyfriend (now husband) in the South of France.

After settling down our priority was to find jobs.Domenico had made some contacts in Nice and St Jean Cap Ferrat, so after a few weeks I started work at Le Gourmet Italien Restaurant in St Jean.

Le Gourmet was owned by Gianni D’Angelis who Domenico actually worked for years previously on the island of Capri and unexpectedly bumped into again in St Jean as he was working as a waiter next door at Le Sloop restaurant. Gianni was a typical Neapolitan and an absolutely superb chef, he took me under his wings and showed me the ropes, luckily his English was brilliant which helped as my French was limited even though I had studied ‘O’ level french at school.

So the summer was spent working 7 days a week serving the rich and famous, making loads of tips, then heading to the beach to sleep in the afternoon before starting the evening shift. Back in those days the port of St Jean was thriving.

In 2006 we stopped off in St Jean during out camper vanning trip and was surprised to see that Le Gourmet was still there and had in fact expanded to include a Neapolitan pizzeria. After a few calls the staff tracked Gianni down who came to spend the evening with us, it was lovely to catch up after so many years and for him to see our children, we reminisced a bit and he kept saying how I was always his favourite waitress…how sweet!! Unfortunately Gianni’s health was not good and he was getting on a bit, but he couldn’t keep himself away from the restaurant, it was in his blood.

It wasn’t until a couple of years later that we heard that Gianni had passed away. His partner for the past 30 years is still running the restaurant, though only the pizzeria part, the other has closed down. Domenico and I quite often go down to see her and help out occasionally, it is a lovely restaurant though the port in general has lost its charm from years ago and a lot of places are looking tired. The menu’s are still the same as they were 27 years ago ….nothing has changed with time. The prices too are absolutely over the top... for example a margarita pizza in Naples will be no more than 5 euro, in St Jean the average is 15 euro…crazy!! They say they have to justify the high prices because the season is shorter now.

After travelling the world and running our own restaurants we can see where things are going wrong and what needs to be changed in St Jean, but unfortunately the owners are stuck in their ways and won’t make changes to adapt with the times…which is a real shame.

DJ and I have recently finished a website for them to bring them into the 21st century http://www.gourmetitalien.com/

Nice & Dog Walking

We have been back in Nice now for the past month and still trying to adjust, I think that the fact that we don’t yet have our own place here and still living at Domenico’s brothers apartment hasn’t really helped with the process. But it seems the sensible option for the moment until we know exactly which part of the coast we want to settle. Then we can find a larger place with some space for Milly, she certainly misses her country lifestyle!

It puts a lot of pressure on me having to take her out several times a day for a walk and Nice is not the dog friendliest of places considering so many people have dogs.

I have started a daily regime of taking her up to Mont Boron a short climb from where we are living and running the tracks with her, though it is becoming more difficult in the heat. It is a beautiful part of Nice with views amazing views of the city with its beaches and around to Villefranche and St Jean Cap Ferrat.

Most of the time the other dog walkers are pretty friendly once they know that Milly is not aggressive, she can be a bit too friendly though and I sometimes see a look of fear when we are walking towards some one with a smaller dog. But usually a quick don’t worry ‘elle est gentile’puts them at ease.

One of my worst cases and there have been a few, was when a nasty French chap was coming towards me with 2 poodly dogs not on a leashes and barking away ferociously. I kept Mill under control and she looked at them as if to say ‘what is all the fuss about’, but he had the cheek to say that I should have my dog muzzled, when it was his dogs larking about. I was so angry, I wanted to say to him in my shocking French what an idiot he was, but the words didn’t come out in time, so I stormed of muttering under my breath!!

I have found that the French always have something to say and can’t keep to themselves. I was also verbally attacked one day on the promenade by a woman riding a bike with her dog in the basket. Telling me I should not be walking the dog as it was too hot and the ground would burn her feet! It was a lovely spring day and definitely not too hot, and there were plenty of other dog walkers out who she didn’t approach!! Why pick on me! I need to take some serious French lessons so I can stand up for myself in these situations, as I become mute when I can’t say what I want to say.Very frustrating!!.

On a lighter note, Domenico & I have met some super people and are slowly making new friends through the Nice Meet Up group, loads of events have been organized from walks though to dinners which has been great and have a good laugh.

Back Home in Le Marche for a bit...

At the beginning of May we made the 8 hour drive from Nice back home to Le Marche I always love going back, though was in for a bit of a shock when I saw how much everything had grown, it had been such a wet spring and the week prior to us going the weather had changed to a heat wave, so everything was flourishing and overgrown. I have never seen the countryside looking so lush.

Casa Nostra

Nearby

Our main priority was trying to cut back all the wheat that had popped up surrounding the house,even between the paving...it was a major and exhausting job with the weed zapper machine and my shoulders really felt it for days later. But it was good being able to walk around and not have to worry about random snakes in the overgrowth.
The stalla was full of swallows making babies.....well actually laying eggs! And Milly spent the days in and out trying to catch them, as well as chasing the lizards...so many without tails running around now! Domenico managed to save this little chap before Milly caught site of it.

It was going to be a very special weekend as an old school friend James who I had made contact with through facebook after 28 ish years and his partner Jon were coming to stay.

Domenico, Jon & James with the Sibillini Mountains in the backgroundBeach at Porto San Giorgio

Servigliano.

They have both spent a lot of time in Italy though it was the first time in Le Marche for both of them, so we tried to cram in as much as we could in the 2 days they were with us, in between lots of eating and drinking! A fabulous weekend...

The view from Fermo looking out to the Adriatic & the Centre

Natalie & Chris' Wedding

February the 1st was a very special day for us...the day our oldest daughter Natalie married Chris. The wedding was to take place in Auckland, New Zealand, where Natalie still lives. So a week before the big day we flew over, with Liana and DJ following on a few days later from England.
It was a big family affair as it was the first time in many years that I was together with all my family and the first time all of the cousins on my side of the family were together, which was very special.
The wedding and ceremony took place at Mantells in a beautiful old mediterranean villa, it really felt as if we were in a part of Italy.
It was a lovely intimate wedding with about 60 family and friends, Natalie looked stunning and I couldn't stop crying as she walked in with Domenico. Liana was one of her bridesmaids who looked equally gorgeous, as well as DJ who looked very handsome as the groomsman....a very proud moment. Loads more photos are on their website www.amadio.co.nz.

Nice, South of France

Well here I am back again....it has been a while with a lot happening since my last entry in August.
I've been meaning to update for some time but never seem to get the fingers and brain moving in unison.
The end of last year saw us moving to Nice in the South of France, where we are still hoping to settle...work permitting.

NICE

OLD NICETHE PORT

Our life has done a full circle. 28 years ago before children, Domenico and I both lived and worked on the Riviera for several years before heading to New Zealand. Now the children have all left home to do their own thing we decided to head back there.
We are currently going through the dilemma of 'where is home' as we have been travelling so much and although Domenico would continue to keep moving, I would really like to find a place I can call home and keep coming back to.
We still have our house in Le Marche which is still for sale and I do love it there, but not for work. I didn't realise until leaving Italy how much 'in grained' it had become even with all of its faults and I really start to miss certain things,most importantly the friendliness of the Italians,the fresh produce and the simple way of cooking.
It is for this reason we are currently looking for an apartment in Menton, still in France but only a walk away from Italy...for when I am in need of a quick Italian fix.
I am also thinking of changing the name of my blog, as it is not really an 'Italian Journal' any more,but will see how things go in the next few weeks.

Summer Days

The last few weeks have been pretty laid back, just hanging about at home and spending some days by the sea. It is the busiest time of the year in Ischia and the holiday makers have arrived on mass. Traffic has increased and the various tourist towns are swelling with pedestrians, I’m finding it increasingly difficult to take Milly out for her daily walks trying to manouevre around the crowds doing their passeggiata. Hopefully next week some normality will return.

Our friends Salvatore and Adriana have come over from Napoli for the weekend to spend some time with us and I had to do the very Italian thing of hiring a brolly and sunbed on the main beach of Casamicciola (not a nice beach at all and the dirtiest water with being near the port) but they insisted on going to the nearest beach. It is definitely not my idea of a relaxing day, it resembled a meat market, with kids crying, parents screaming at them, sand flying…but the Italians seem to thrive on it!

The Beach- Casamicciola

Usually I head to the rocks near Lacco Ameno when I am by myself, no crowds and transparent water for swimming.

Liana

The Rocks

On one particular day I spotted this guy heading out to sea on his blow up lilo….I am sure there are some do’s and dont’s when using these floating devises!! ‘One should be aware of the danger in floating too far especially when you end up in the pathway the boats take for coming in and out of the port!’

Spot The Wally!!

After taking the photo I put my camera away and looked up to try and locate him, but he was no where to be seen, perhaps a passing boat had picked him up!

Isola D'Ischia

We arrived on Ischia Tuesday evening just as the sun was setting, it was an awesome site and I took loads of photos only to find that I must have somehow deleted the folder as the photos were no where to be found on the memory card. Just my luck!

Domenico found a studio/ apartment on the internet in the town of Casamicciola, which will be our home until the end of August.Then we will look for something more permanent to rent once the holiday season has finished.

The last few days have been spent exploring the Island which is extremely picturesque. Apart from the areas near the coast most of the homes are built on the hillside terraces.

An area I particularly love is Sant' Angelo on the Southern coast of Ischia, the small town cascades down the hillside to the marinas below.

Sant' Angelo

We parked the car in the first car park as no cars are allowed in the town and made our way along the narrow streets to the marina then up through the town towards the long stretch of Maronti Beach on the other side of the peninsula. Luckily there was a large area of beach ‘libero’ at the far end so we made our way there hoping that there wouldn’t be too many people so we could swim with Milly.

Spiaggia dei Maronti

End of the afternoon- Domenico & Milly walking back through Sant'Angelo

The evening was spent back at Ischia port at Il Gabbiano restaurant for a beer and pizza. Domenico’s brother Bruno worked here for 10 years as a pizzaiola before moving to New Zealand with his family.We have eaten at a few places along the port but find that everyone is doing pretty much the same menu- same pasta, pizza, seafood and are really catering to the mass of tourists. So I am determined to find those places that are a bit 'more special'

Il Gabbiano at Porto D'Ischia

Changes Are Good

It was one of those spontaneous moments that I have come to love, that saw us driving up to Napoli and jumping on the ferry to Ischia.

Although Domenico had visited before, it was the first time for me and I’m just annoyed that I left my camera behind to snap the beautiful images of the Island.

We took Milly with us and she was a gem coping with the ferry ride ( I captured this shot with my phone) and the several bus trips.

It is obligatory to keep a dog muzzled especially a German Shepherd on public transport, and they were very strict about checking. Luckily I had her Halti collar on which is able to be tightened to keep her mouth closed if the need be, and they seemed to be happy about that!

I was actually amazed at how many people would come up to me and ask ‘posso caresare il cane’… can I stroke the dog…. Which was really nice as Milly is a real softy and just loves the attention from people.

After a couple of days on the island and making several new friends we have decided to move there for a while and our plans to move to England are now on hold.

I had my doubts about moving to England after our last visit…usually when we decide to move to another country everything comes together pretty quickly, but after 6 months of trips back and forth looking for a business things weren’t coming together and I began to think that perhaps it was not ‘ meant to be’. And each time the novelty of being there quickly wore off and I missed Italy more and more.

So we have decided to move to Ischia for a while and take it from there, at least we can still enjoy the Mediterranean climate and the Neapolitan food which I love so much and Domenico can speak Neapolitan to his hearts content!